The vineyards of Champagne, situated about 160km east of Paris, span an area of 33,500 hectares around 319 villages.
We all know the three principal grape varieties used for Champagne, i.e. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier … however, there are actually 4 further permitted grape varietals; Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Arbane and Petit Meslier, although these make up only about 0.02% of total vines planted in Champagne. On my last visit to Champagne I was very fortunate to taste a cuvée made from all 7 varietals by Champagne Janisson Baradon. They have a tasting room and boutique on the Place de la République in Epernay, so next time you’re there, pop in and try it for yourself.
Dark-skinned Pinot Noir with aromas of red berries, gives Champagne it’s backbone and gives body to the blend, Pinot Meunier adds roundness, resulting in a supple, fruity wine while Chardonnay adds delicate fragrances with notes of flowers, citrus and even minerals. It is slower to develop than Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier therefore it produces wines that are built to age.
Pinot Noir and Meunier are generally grown in two areas, the Montagne de Reims, known for its north-facing chalky slopes that receive heat from the warm winds rising from the valleys below, and the Vallée de la Marne, known for its south-facing chalky slopes.
Most Chardonnay is grown on the east-facing slopes of the Côte des Blancs, south of Épernay, and include the villages of Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.
The various terroirs contribute to the different characteristics in each varietal and explains why each house blends juice from different varietals and areas within Champagne to obtain their signature house style.
Champagne grapes are harvested entirely by hand and about 120,000 pickers are contracted for the harvest. Working in teams of 4 per hectare, they have about a 3-week window in which to harvest, after that the grapes are beyond their best. However, just to add extra pressure to the harvest, all Champagne grapes reach ideal ripeness at about the same time.
Harvests obviously differ from year to year, so twice a week just as the grapes start to change colour, samples are picked from a number of control plots and tested which will give a clear indication as to when harvest should start. In good years, every producer has to set aside a percentage of their wines as reserves against future disappointing harvests (as happened in 2012) or to meet instances when there is exceptional demand like the Millennium.
Although Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes are black, the juice is white but only if it has minimal contact with the skins, although it may have a slightly more yellow colour than Champagne produced from entirely white grapes. Rosé Champagne is produced in one of two ways, by either leaving the clear juice of black grapes to macerate on its skins very briefly or by adding a very small amount of still Pinot Noir red wine to the blend. This is the more favoured method as it enables a predictable and consistent colour year after year.
Champagne houses have very specific styles dictated by the predominance of the grape varieties in their blends, and this explains why you might prefer a certain house’s Champagnes over another.
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The Champagne Chick
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THE CHAMPAGNE CHICK 